Iliniza Norte as seen from Flanco Sigchos
Located in Pichincha province and about 1 hour 30 minutes from Quito, Iliniza Norte is the 6th highest peak in Ecuador at 5126 m. Perhaps this is one of my favorite mountains. This summit can be achieved in 1 day via the normal route, this mountain does not requiere a lot of previous experience and its not a technical mountain unlike its neighbor, Iliniza Sur.
This mountain can be climbed via several routes:
- Normal, Southeast Ridge Route (Easiest): This route is the most used by climbers and the best one of it's your first time there. It is not hard at all and only requieres medium mountain equipment. You start from Parqueadero la Virgen up to the Nuevos Horizontes refuge which will take you from 2 to 3 hours. Once you are there you walk for about 10 minutes to the division between Iliniza Norte and Sur and take the Southeast ridge. It will take you from 1 hour and a 30 minutes to 2 hours to reach the summit.
Climbing via the normal route
- North Face Route (Hardest): By saying it's the hardest route dosent mean it is hard or impossible to achieve. What it does requiere is more physical condition as you will face a step scree and you wont go to the refuge. What I do tell you is that this is a really nice route as you will be accompanied by a river and you will have really nice landscapes. I recommend this route if you have a little more experience, you wont regret. It can also be achieved in 1 day.
In the summit
-Flanco Sigchos Route (Longest): 2 days are recommended to try this route. You will start from the other face of the mountain the one located in Sigchos. There you can expect a 5 hour walk into the camping zone, which can be seen in the picture. There you will find a nice shelter placer, with a river, wood and protection from the wind. You need to rest here the night. The next day you start early, you continue your walk and you can see the little lagoon in the base of the mountain. Once you are halfway up the mountain you join the normal route in the division between the two mountains and continue to the summir via the southeast ridge. Personally, this is my favorite route, yes its long but its worth it. You will appreciate beatifull landscapes and have the chance to approach the mountain via the other side. A unique experience.
Camping Site Sigchos Route
This mountain has a nice climate throughtout the year. I have climbed it in November, July, and March and I didnt have any trouble reaching the summit in any of those months. What I do advise you is to be careful when ice or snow present, especilly in the last part when you find rock as it may get slippery.
In the summit with some ice
Iliniza Norte is perfect for starters, the first time I had some trouble due to altitude sickness but nothing to worry about. This mountain wont dissapoint you and if you like it like I did you will want to go via all the routes and repeat it several time.
Normal route climbing
